Cycling In the Great Rift Valley - Lake Albert, Western Uganda - June 2012

An Island Holiday to Zanzibar

Jan 2013

Precision Air Check In at Entebbe says best views of Kili are from the left side – so two seats on the left are booked.

A large lady with large hand luggage is holding up the boarding process trying to squeeze her double size hand bag into a half sized overhead compartment, to no avail, so she decides to sit with it, knocking Sue into her seat in the process. Drinks selection is limited to sodas and beers, so settle down to orange juice and a bag of cashew nuts.

The flight makes a scheduled stop en route at Kilimanjaro International Airport to pick up assorted backpackers and safari goers. But it’s too cloudy to see any mountain apart from a faint outline briefly of Mt Mearu upon decent. Nothing apart from beer and sodas, so it’s another round of OJ and nuts. The big lady with the big handbag has another go at depositing it upstairs, again no luck. All in all a boring flight to Dar E Salam.

Arrive in Dar, and we had previously been told we need to clear customs and immigration, and to check in for Zanzibar here, but we are now late for our connection. Get directed around the back route of the terminal (without even a sniff at an immigration counter) by many helpful staff only to find Precision Air counters closed. The fight was scheduled to depart at 1830 its now 1835. This can’t be right as I’m sure many of those people from Kili are also going to Zanzibar. The helpful staff have all disappeared but with persistence we check in at another counter and head to the boarding gate –only to find the bus is taking us straight back to the very plane we just got off, and some familiar faces are sitting on board already, how did they do it ? Oh well a quick jaunt around Julies Nyere International Airport is always good for any traveller.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           The takeoff and then descend flight doesn’t even warrant the “cabin lights will be dimmed for takeoff " to be turned on, nor does the seatbelt sign go off, so the new crew once ushering us on board, sit down, belt up and stay that way, till we say good bye 20minutes later on the tarmac of Zanzibar. Now that’s a job!

A cheery young Indian driver drops us of at the Stone town Café and B+ B, and feeling pretty knackered from the days adventure settle for fresh kingfish and prawns for dinner in there sister restaurant Archipelago

History

Zanzibar has a romantic, legendary and fascinating history which comes from a long interaction with many cultures.

For the last three thousand years, sailors and traders from Arabia and the Persian Gulf used the north east monsoon winds from mid-December until the end of February to voyage to the east coast of Africa bringing knives, spears, metalwork, beads and later firearms.

Between April and September, the south west monsoon helped the ships back again across two thousand miles of the Indian Ocean, carrying their cargoes of gold, tortoise-shell, ivory and slaves.

With its strategic trading location, influence from the ancient Persians in the north, and Indians in the east was always going to keep Zanzibar on the map. And when Vasco de Gama rounded the Cape of Good Hope in 1497 and opened up a sea route to the East Indies for the European powers the stakes got higher.

1800s saw the control of Zanzibar shift back to the Sultans of Oman, the Albusaid Dynasty, where an uneasy sharing of power between German (up till end of WW1) and British Colonizer’s lasted throughout the century, and into the early 20 century.

The Sultancy still had certain shared powers up until Tanganyika independence in 1963 but a revolt by indigenous Africans a year later saw the end to it for good.

Now the modern day government operates semi autonomous within the United Republic of Zanzibar, and Muslim religion is stronger than anywhere on the mainland and its mix with African traditions makes for an interesting blend.

Stone town

Still the most stunning building in town is the House of Wonders – a two story building with high ceilings and clock tower on top, built by the second Sultan. Done in colonial wood, with high ceilings, wide verandas, and with enough Arabic influence to make it very striking. But the inside is closed for refurbishment (sponsored by The Ahga Khan)

Stop at the Peoples Palace museum for a fascinating look at the Sultans’ life in Zanzibar – originating from Oman in the early1800’s, to their handover to the African after the revolution in 1964. The story of Sayyida Salme, Princess of Zanzibar and Oman, eloping with a German merchant, Rudolph Heinrich Ruete and going back to Hamburg sounds very romantic – and Sue wants to buy her book, “Memoirs of an Arabian Princess, “  the first known autobiography of an Arab woman

Have the inevitable drink at Mercury’s bar, (which apparently has nothing to do with Freddie Mercury) , and we sit through terrible slow service and food. And then leave when waiter tell us, “Sorry sir, cold Kilimanjaro’s are finished”.

Sue’s getting testy – so deposit her back at Stone town Café and B+B and head out again. Past the Dala Dala stand up to the open air fish and vegetable markets (the smell is nauseating, and the flies operate in battalions) and on to the Douw Harbor. A huge warehouse fill of sacks of cloves is near the Douw harbor and I sneak a quick picture of this staggering amount of fragrant sweet spice before being told no photos allowed.  

 

After 3 – 4 hours get back to B+B and ask at quant Dolphin Café next door for a beer only to find they don’t serve alcohol – so settle for iced coffee instead, it’s so good the first doesn’t even touch the sides and I order two more.

Invigorated by my caffeine fix, I get Sue and suggest we take a walk along the quitter south coast side of town and look for somewhere to eat. She agrees, if a bit apprehensively,  as she knows what my walks often turn out to be – big treks.

Stop in at the Serena Hotel for a look, then pass a wonderful old non descript palm thatch building down an alleyway, on the beach. Once we’ve determined that they sell wine, we order fish and listen to the sound of the waves far from the busy town centre.

Next day, a book boat trip to Prison Island, but as its only leaving at 2pm, do my duty and accompany Sue around the shops as her price negotiating partner. A few hours later and a couple of US$100 lighter we head to the boat for our trip to Prison Island. I must add that I did buy an old brass telescope that I was smitten with as soon as I laid my eyes on it, the body bound in red leather, in a black carved box, when I saw the engraved date stamp of London 1907, I was sold. Every time I pick it up now, I still half expect to see a more recent Made in China 2010! Then it’s a quick look at the Anglican Cathedral the site of the old slave Market.

Get the boat for the island from the southern part of town. It is an old sea going Dhow, but now with outboard motor and without sail. The 30 minute boat ride turns out to be the best part, as the island itself is a waste of time. Built, but never used, as a prison for slaves, it was later transformed into a Quarantine Station.

But now it has a couple of non-authentic bright pink and orange looking buildings looking like they are supposed to be restaurants and shop – but currently very much closed. The turtles promised are not wild but kept in an enclosure, and although old and huge in size – they look very much in captivity. And it’s too rough to snorkel. Next time give it a miss.

On the way back from the boat we stop in at Africa House Hotel for what looks like a great sundowner and sunset viewing second floor. We are not alone as it is the sunset spot in town - and we find standing room only. A fabulously old colonial building that used to house the English Club, complete with black and white prints around the walls.

So on to tropical Paradise

Get picked up by Mohammed who it turns out is an old soldier and who was part of the invading Tanzanian Army that toppled Idi Amin in the 80s.He stops short on the gory details when pressed, saying he prefers to forget it. We stop along the way for a look at the birthplace of Princess Salme, the Bet il Mtoni palace ruins – having been fascinated by her story in Stone town. Mohammed is full of info as we drive along and a very likable character. The road is good – better than Kampala that is for sure and we reach the hotel after an hour. A beautiful thatched central open area with 12 bungalows spread out along the beach front and currently 80% full, around 40 people nightly. A good handful of young couples, honeymooner’s we guess – like our young Irish pair next to bungalow to us.    

A big turquoise green lagoon about 500metres wide and up to half meter deep at best. The white tips of breakers over the reef can be seen in the distance. It’s not isolated, as we are surrounded on both sides by other resorts, but all is very quiet and you would not know. The one next door has just been bought by a Ugandan we are told. Pemba beach is owned by an English man who spends time there every second month and a local partner who should be there most of the other.

 

We are told the chef is from SA and it shows, the food is excellent, as good as you would find in a 5 star hotel back in SA and better than anything I’ve seen so far in east Africa.  We have seafood platter to share – a biggest crab I have ever seen, slipper lobster, calamari, and prawns. Even the Dannie De Wet Chardonnay is delicious, unlike the often spoilt wine we have to put up with in Kampala.

 

So the days of sunshine and sea fade into each other. Lying in the sun, under the shade in the hammock, swimming in the sea or sea water swimming pool. But the water is always so warm; it’s hard to imagine that the water in the vast Indian Ocean could be this hot. When the tide goes out its ankle deep for 300 – 400 meters and you still can only see the reef on the horizon.

On our last day we take a driver and head to Nungwe against my better judgment as all I can remember reading of this place is New Year parties and trance music. But we are going to a turtle’s sanctuary (better than Prison Island I hope) in a natural sea aquarium. It’s a shelter for those rescued from captivity and fishing nets, etc. It doesn’t disappoint – about as close to the real thing you will ever get, even get to swim with them. The old lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula makes a picture – until I’m told it is a military installation and no photos allowed. But I am glad we did not take advice from younger friends and stay here, it’s rough and ready – ideal for backpackers, but not for my wife who has become accustomed to the better things in life!!

That night, our last, my wife treats me to dinner on the beach for two with champas for my birthday!

Next morning catch the early sunrise before our departure to the airport.

Flight back with Precision is in a brand new 7 day old plane– all shiny black and white vinyl. It’s a bigger plane than the outward trip so the skip to stone town only takes 15 minutes with gorgeous views of tiny islands, ringed in white sandy beaches and sand banks lying in crystal turquoise waters. Do the reverse route of our arrival, off the plane, back way around immigration and back onto the same plane. Sue gets away without having been stamped into the country due to our chaotic late transfer 7 days ago (therefore not paying for a visa).  I’m not so lucky and have to be escorted by an officer to the visa section so I can be stamped in – in order to be stamped out. By now the Public Address is calling for Knockey Robot and Susaan to report to our gate as the plane is ready for departure. It’s a mix of safari goers and backpackers again en route to Kili International airport.

A sunny but cloudy day – but a rush of excitement in the plane as we sight Kilimanjaro and Meru on the right – not a perfect shot but head and shoulders are above the clouds. We pass over the only area in the world where tanzanite is found, the Mererani Hills. Once landed at Kili we see we have company in the form of a massive unmarked 767 belonging to Sheikh of UAE, Rashid Al Maktoum. Told he comes here regularly for a spot of game hunting! It’s the only airport in the world I know of, where we can wait on the tarmac and shoot photos (as the plane refuels). En route to Entebbe, its clear skies as we fly over what I am convinced is the Ngorogoro crater and conservancy area, and the Serengeti. The line between protected areas and cultivated, show man’s effect on the land – even in what seems to be infinite African savannah landscape.