Mabira Forest Reserve
November 2012
The Kampala Jinja highway seems in much better shape since
the last time travelled –I suspect not actually - am I simply getting used to
Uganda’s Roads?
An hour and 15 minutes later and a mere 60 kms we are in the
village of Naijembe, and turn off the road at the local market onto a surprisingly
good loose metal track and head immediately uphill into dense forest. The thick forest towers up
and chooks both sides of the slim road.
We are in the 360sq km Mabira Forest Reserve. And it has had
quite a history. Embattled by those (
the Sugar Corporation and allegedly the President himself ) who want to turn
one third of it into a sugarcane
plantation, assaulted by illegal loggers enjoying easily bought protection, desperately
wanting to eat into the heart. It has however managed to buck the trend of
corruptible politicians, as was evident with the recent government decreaded
moratorium on logging and sugarcane development. With its close proximity to
the capital It is by far better utilized as a green lung and CO2 absorbing
sponge, and a water reservoir for the sprawling and polluting capital.
First impression of the lodge is that it looks a little
grand for its setting; amongst the towering trees and thick under growth, but
the wood and stone help keep the balance with nature. The bar and lookout up amongst the trees is
amazing though.
The rooms are hidden away from the main building down
separate paths along the side of the hill, and tucked into the forest far from
each other. Now we feel we are really living in the forest. Ours is situated down
a stone paved path and as light rain starts to fall you need to watch your step
on the moss covered stones. The windows are glassless, covered instead with a fine
mesh to keep out the insects and they are a real win, giving you the feeling of
being amongst the heart of the forest.
After an hours afternoon nap we go up to the lodge for cornflake pie and
coffee and watch the colobus monkeys crashing
through the trees, making a hell of a noise, and if the monkeys aren’t enough,
competing for attention are screeching cucoan birds.
The sky has cleared and we watch the golden globe of sunset
slip through the thick trees. As the last light disappears, the orchestra of
night insects starts. A bat fly’s past our balcony, and an owl hoots deep into
the black night, no moon to be seen.
We wake up in the middle of the night to eerie high pitched
screeching; it’s the forest hyrax (flying squirrel). It sounds like something
out of a horror movie.
Next day with sun shining bright, we take a couple of hours
walk into the forest with a guide and are immediately shown the amazing plant
life sprouting from the rich forest floor. There are several trails of varying
length. Take a guide with you – he will point out life you never knew existed.
Many species of primate exist, the Red tailed monkeys and the rare Black
Mangabey among them. 300yr old trees, Ironwood and Ficus trees shoot straight
up to the sky, through the thick green undergrowth.
Its amazing to see just biodiversity and untouched
wilderness so close to heaving humanity.
Communities still live off the forest, using its medicinal
plants and edible recourses, but commercial harvesting is prohibited. The guide
tells us about the locals putting up such a fight when the president was
persuaded by the local Indian businessman to turn the forest into sugarcane.
Apparently the president took the money and ran, before declaring the current
moratorium.
I see Cycling tracks,
one to the Griffon Falls (about 8 hrs.). Next time I think.
Take a sauna, steaming hot until I’m soaked and then a
plunge into the open air pools under the trees. It’s invigorating.
That night a mesmeric light rain fall onto the treetop
canopy, keeping the forest creatures quiet. With no glass over the windows you
really are out in the forest amongst all the life, soft rain falling on the
canopy above, the breeze in the leaves, its therapeutic. You can easily think you are alone in the
forest.
Will be sorry to go, but only
for ashort while – we will be back. Its distance from Kampala and the solitude
it provides beckons the city dweller. But beckoning not too many I hope.
